It is 4 a.m. Dark. Freezing. Your headlamp shows only snow. Your breath makes white clouds. You climb a steep hill. Then the sky turns pink. Everest glows gold. Blue lakes shine below like mirrors. You stop and stare. This is the magic of the Gokyo Valley Trek. A Quiet Path Away From Crowds Most people take the busy trail to Base Camp. This trail is different. At Namche Bazaar, you turn west. Fewer people walk here. The path is calm and clean. You hear yak bells. You hear prayer flags flap...